On to cheerier sights! The cathedrals (both named Notre Dame, of course) at Reims and Laon were spectacular (though Laon isn’t a particularly easy town for driving around) and Champagne was as beautiful as it was tasty. Des took dozens of pictures of the peculiar (mostly wrought-iron) signs mounted to the fronts of most houses in Hautvilliers (just near Champagne).
Also interesting was seeing the rail yards at Laon over which Grandpa’s bomber was shot down, then the field at Vic Sur Aine where he landed before being taken in by the resistance. Photos here.